Mark Hanbunjerd - Iteration 3: Object of Transgression

Iteration 3: Object of Transgression

Final 1/3 of AI Capstone project: Allowing AI to fully design a performance garment

Conceptual Design Project: Facilitating a project for Alex the AI to design a performance garment for the Vancouver market

The goal for this project was to test whether or not AI could design an apparel with minimal intervention from myself, allowing it to dictate the design as much as possible (having it self-prompt to iterate, define ways to material test, interpret my user feedback, etc). Having the jacket be a performance garments allows me to wear test and gauge how successful the AI is at creating a functional product, while also having the final outcome be a proof of concept of how AI can be used to transgress traditional modes of human design. In the end, the AI jacket was also redesigned by myself to improve on Alex's original design.

View the Overarching Project

Notable Award: John C. Kerr Chancellor Emeritus Excellence in Design Award, 2024

Detailed View

Final Jacket Designed by AI

3-Piece Helmet-Compatible Hood

Raglan Sleeve with flat-piped seams

Front torso pockets with adjustable cuffs

Alex's Logo Embroidered on Jacket Back

Redesigned Jacket, Rendered in CLO

Patterns

Estimated Fabric Cost Per Unit: CA$85–$90 per garment, size S (1.8 m of Ripstop GoreTex Performance Shell at ~CA$46–CA$49/m + Other minor fabrics)
Nesting efficiency: 69.89% on a 68" roll and 1800mm cutting surface

Samples + Changes

Proto 1: Muslin Prototype

First muslin prototype, drafted from my measurements, used to test pocket functionality and placement. Annotated with design, sewing, and construction improvements. Sample included every elements the AI had designed, most of them non-functional.

Proto 2: Fit Sample

Second prototype, a quick fit sample in Ripstop Gore-Tex Performance Shell, focused on testing the fit of the jacket and the ergonomics of pocket placement. Non-functional elements from Proto 1 were removed, with pockets and details plotted for me to bodystorm.

Preproduction Sample (AI's Design)

Final physical sample used to showcase the outcome of the project and the AI's final design. Fully functional, seam sealed, and constructed with final trims/fabric.

Redesigned Jacket (My Design)

Final prototype refined for improved function and simplified construction (number of seams reduced, decorative details simplified, pockets simplified, etc.), reducing production time and material cost while maintaining the AI’s original design ethos.

Proto 1 Baseline Measurements:

16 1/8" Hood Height (Measured Flat)
11 1/2" Hood Depth
3 3/8" Collar Height
23 1/2" Front Length
24 1/4" Back Length
19 1/4" Chest Width
19 1/4" Waist Width (Half Measure - Flat)
5 1/2" Shoulder Width/HPS-HPS
19 3/8" Sleeve Length
1" Cuff Width
1 1/2" Bottom Hem Width

POM Adjustments

Sleeve length +3" (With adjusted cuffs width)
Chest width increased by 2 1/4"
Shoulder width increased by 3/4"
Armhole depth increased by 1/2"
Torso length increased by 1 1/4"
Collar height increased by 3/4"
Cuff width decreased by 3/4"

Construction Changes

Arm pockets removed entirely
Hood changed to 3-piece construction (New Opening Circumference of 22 7/8")
Cinchcord at collar removed
Decorative piping detail at collar simplified to increase functionality

Fit Summary

Added ease over the entire jacket as jacket was generally too fitted when worn with thicker underlayer.

POM Adjustments

Hood depth decreased by 1/2"
Shoulder width decreased by 1/8"

Construction Changes

Cinch cord added at collar, cuffs, waistband, and hood back
Added reflective shoulder pads for increased reflectivity from jacket back
Added zipper guard
Collar pattern overhauled so collar sits more forward when zipped up

Fit Summary

Slight decrease to overall hood size and hood pattern overhauled so hood sits more forward when worn with helmet.

POM Adjustments

No further fit adjustments

Construction Changes

Right chest pocket standardized to match torso pockets.
Raglan shoulder removed, piped seam now ends at LPS
Small left chest pocket removed
Side gusset added
Sleeves converted to 3-panel curved construction, connected to the added side gusset
1/8" piping and flat piped seam replaced with 1/4" Piped Seam.
Cinchcord at cuffs replaced with adjustable velcro straps
Chin guard replaced with thinner, brushed polyester suede

Fit Summary

No silhouette adjustment, piped seam on raglan sleeve removed so shoulder points sit more naturally when arms are down.

Material/Trims/Notions

Ripstop GoreTex
Performance Shell
W-POL-RPS-145-RED
100% Polyester
UC: Primary fabric, pockets (self-fabric)

Brushed Polyester Suede
W-POL-SUE-180-BLK
100% Polyester
UC: Chin guard

Plainweave Polyester
W-POL-PLN-110-BLK
100% Polyester
UC: Interior channel for shockcord

TPU-Laminated Polyester Sheet
S-POL-SHT-200-AQA
100% Polyester
UC: Reinforced hood brim

YKK AquaGuard® Reverse Coil
Z-WPRC-05-AL-MRN
PU-laminated Polyester Tape/Nylon Coil Teeth

Seam Sealing Tape
T-POL-SMT-20-BLK
100% Polyester
20mm Width

Velcro Tape
T-POL-VLC-30-BLK
100% Polyester
30mm Width

3M Round Reflective Piping
M-POL-PIP-20-GRY
80% Polyester, 20% Retroreflective Fabric
20mm Width

Shockcord
E-POL-SHC-5-BLK
60% Rubber, 40% Polyester
5mm Diameter

Eyelets
H-STL-ELT-12-GMB
Steel, Nickle-plated
12mm Diameter

Double Cord Lock
H-ACP-DCL-6-GRY
100% Acetal Plastic
6mm Cord

Cord Lock (With Loops)
H-ACP-LCL-5-BLK
100% Acetal Plastic
5mm Cord

Cord Lock
H-ACP-CDL-5-BLK
100% Acetal Plastic
5mm Cord

Material Consideration:
The material and trim selection process for this project was directed by the AI, with my role focused on testing and validating its choices through a technical development lens. All viable fabrics available at the Emily Carr Softshop were presented to the AI, which then selected those it determined most suitable for a lightweight, high-mobility shell jacket. My responsibility was to evaluate its choices through material testing, ensuring they could function as intended. For trims, I acted as the decision-maker, choosing components that aligned with the jacket’s intended use and performance needs (e.g., water resistance, adjustability, and durability). In this way, I functioned as a Technical Developer supporting a creative partner by translating conceptual choices into functional, production-ready garments.

Techpack: Streamlining the AI Jacket and redesigning it for manufacture

While this project had no requirements for mass manufacturability, I used the opportunity to refine my technical development skills, while also showcasing my ability to adapt creative concepts from other designers into production-ready solutions while preserving their original intent. *

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Next Project, Heather Bomber Jacket